Banff-Canmore-Lake Louise Honeymoon

Horseback riding near Canmore. (Photo courtesy of the Banff/Lake Louise Tourism Bureau)

Stunning scenery and excellent skiing make Banff National Park one of Canada's most popular tourist destinations. Jagged snow-capped mountains, glaciers, waterfalls, abundant wildlife and hidden canyons all contribute to the dramatic setting, but on top of all that, many of the area's lakes are an unearthly bright blue-green color due to their mineral content (one online reviewer says the area is "so beautiful it looks fake").

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Banff National Park is located in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, about an hour and a half drive west from Calgary (home to the 1988 winter Olympics). Although Banff is an international tourist destination, when we visited for our honeymoon in late July 1999, it didn’t feel overcrowded. Although even the easy trails are spectacular, many were virtually empty. The weather was a bit nippy, though, for late July—it was in the 60s (Fahrenheit) for a few days, so bring warm clothes no matter when you go.

The town of Banff can be crowded during the summer; its downtown is packed with restaurants, shops, pubs, clubs, and tourists from all over the world. Visit Banff for all that, but make your romantic retreat in quieter Canmore, about 20 miles east of Banff. Although Canmore is smaller than Banff, it is generally less crowded and less expensive. Canmore has many fine hotels and bed and breakfasts, plus a historic downtown full of shops, pubs, and nice restaurants. We stayed at two chain hotels in Canmore for part of our honeymoon (the Best Western Pocatello offered nice rooms at an affordable price), but the best place we stayed was The Creek House bed and breakfast (see link below). The gourmet breakfasts, in particular, were superb (mango Belgian waffles come to mind); we usually had breakfast right alongside the pretty creek, with a few ducks paddling lazily around nearby. In the evening, you can cook in a fully stocked gourmet kitchen or eat out (see below). It's pricey—from $390 Canadian to $580 CAD per night, depending on the accommodation and season—but worth it, at least for a night or two.

Canmore is also home to the Canmore Nordic Center, a world-class mountain biking and cross-country skiing facility built for the '88 Olympics. Plus you'll find more golf courses than you can shake a stick at in the Canmore area.

Did we mention the scenery...? As we said while we drove across Alberta's prairies toward the snow-capped mountains of the Canadian Rockies, “This view is like God tapping your shoulder and saying ‘Wake up! Pay attention!’” It's a truly stunning setting for a honeymoon.

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Cost

If you're from the U.S., one of the main attractions of honeymooning in Canada is the usually favorable exchange rate. At the time of this writing (summer 2004), $100 US equaled about $72 CAD—that's about a 28 percent discount (see our currency converter listings to check the current exchange rate). Plus, non-Canadians can get a refund on the sales tax they pay during their visit to Canada—just save your receipts and fill out a simple form for a refund (the forms were available everywhere we looked).

Hotel rates in Canmore ranged from $80 to $370 (CAD) when we checked; hotel rooms in Banff went for $100 to $510 (CAD). Rates are cheaper in the winter and more expensive during the summer. If you're looking for something more affordable, go west to stay at the Lake Louise youth hostel. Mind you, this isn’t necessarily romantic (bunk beds in dorm style rooms are the norm, although some have private rooms for slightly more money), but $38 (CAD) per person, per night puts you within walking distance of Lake Louise. Canmore and Banff are also home to hostels; the youth hostel at Banff is considered one of the best in Canada, with private rooms going for $91 (CAD).

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Things to Do Around Banff and Canmore

1. Go hiking

Pick up Walks & Easy Hikes in the Canadian Rockies by Graham Pole (available locally or online)—if you're interested in exploring the area's dramatic scenery, it will be the best $20 you'll spend. It ranks all the trails in the Alberta area by difficulty and aesthetics. We hiked through Johnston Canyon, with waterfalls up close and personal (you’ll get damp, and with hundreds of your closest friends—it was quite crowded). Then we headed out for more solitary hikes. Here are our totally subjective ratings (5 stars=takes-your breath-away-beautiful):

• Stewart Canyon around Lake Minnewanka. This is where we had a near-encounter with some bighorn sheep Walking along the lake and then into the canyon, we noticed a group of bighorn sheep trotting along behind us. Frankly, it just isn’t something you see every day. When they began following us across a bridge, we got slightly unnerved and scrambled up a large rock—forgetting, of course, that bighorn sheep are built to climb rocks. They passed by and we shared a rueful laugh. Oh, and about the scenery along the trail is pleasant as well. Lake Minnewanka is supposed to have excellent trout fishing.

• The Bankhead loop. Bankhead is a ghost town that used to be a bustling mining town. This historical interpretation site has no interpreters, just signs, but it's fun to wander the grounds imagining what it must have been like at one time. There are picnic facilities nearby; bring your lunch.
• Grassi Lakes. This quieter trail just outside Canmore heads up Mount Rundle, passing by two small gems of lakes, both colored an ethereal blue-green. When we went, we encountered people rappelling a cliff at the lake site. The hiking trail can be challenging, although with good footgear you’ll be fine. There is also a wonderful view of a huge waterfall along the way.
• Larch Valley. This was the hardest trail we hiked (the initial ascent is so steep that there are ten “switchbacks” to get to the top). Adjacent to Moraine Lake, the trail takes you to a high plateau (a frost hollow) surrounded by Larch trees where you can get a great view of the Ten Peaks mountain range (imagine ten snow-covered mountain peaks lined up in a row). Bring a wide angle camera. The trail continues up to the highest peak accessible in the Canadian Rockies, Sentinel Pass (experienced hikers only!), but we stopped at the frost hollow and headed back down. The trip up and back took us the better part of an afternoon.
• Moraine Lake. Every time we show someone our wedding album, they're very polite: "Lovely dress...what a nice cake...charming reception....”

  Moraine Lake. (Photo courtesy of the Banff/Lake Louise Tourism Bureau)

  Then we turn the page and they are shocked speechless, because they've just seen the stunning first picture from our honeymoon: the almost iconic Moraine Lake. The water seems unnaturally turquoise blue, a result of glacier melt that is the norm of many lakes in the area. Moraine Lake holds top honors for sheer beauty. Take a hike on the edge of the lake just to keep looking at it. There are canoes for rental as well. (But don’t expect to swim...the water is very cold even in late July.) There is a charming lodge nearby with expensive snacks and outdoor tables.

• Bow Summit at Lake Peyto. This is a bit of a drive from the towns of Banff and Canmore but worth it. Another stunning glacier lake, with a beautiful and quiet trail nearby. If you just want to see the lake, there is a parking lot near the summit with a million dollar view.

2. Go skiing.

We’re not skiing experts, and we visited in the summer, but it is obvious the area caters to skiers, both downhill and cross country. Some major resorts are Nakiska, which hosted the 1988 Winter Olympics; Lake Louise, which is the largest ski resort in Canada (and rated best in North America for scenery and second best for value by Ski Magazine); and many others. Check the late season for deals, and remember that the ski season can run through May.

3. Go golfing. Definitely stay in Canmore for this: the golf courses are closest to this town. In fact, in small Canmore, there are four courses: SilverTip, Canmore Golfing and Curling Club, Stewart Creek Golf Club, and Brewster’s Kananaskis Ranch Golf Resort. Nearby is award-winning Kananaskis Country Golf Course. Finally, the acclaimed Greywolf Golf Course is two hours from Banff.

4. Mountain bike or cross country ski at the Canmore Nordic Center. The Canmore Nordic Center, created for the 1988 Calgary Olympics cross country and biathlon events, is two kilometers from downtown Canmore. In the summer, it is a world-renown haven for mountain bikers. None of this is for the faint hearted: remember, Olympians were challenged here! Bikes, helmets, and skis are available for rental, and the center also offers lessons. You can also visit for the center's historic value; it has a cafeteria and gift shop. 

5. Soak luxuriously in the hot springs. There are number of hot springs in the Canadian Rockies; Radium Hot Springs near Kootenay National Park is 80 minutes southwest of Banff, while Miette Hot Springs in Jasper is quite a bit farther. The most accessible hot springs are right in town at the Banff Upper Hot Springs, which are fed by Sulphur Mountain. Even if you are staying in a hostel with no hot tub, you can pay a small fee and soak to your heart’s content in this outdoor pool of mineral water, naturally heated to 104° F. Bring a bathing suit and remember that you won’t be alone; it was a tad crowded the day we went. There is a day spa on the premises that does aromatherapy and various kinds of massage for a fee; be sure to call ahead.

6. Experience a real glacier. If you love these mountains, you’ll want to thank the ancient glaciers that carved them out. The Columbia Icefield is the largest glacier field in the Northern Hemisphere, and a relatively short drive from Banff.  Dress warmly, in layers. The icefield consists of six major glaciers feeding three rivers. You can hike in the area or even camp overnight in a nearby campground if you're so inclined. If you want to see the glaciers without all the work, a number of tour companies will fly you over the icefield, or take you by all-terrain vehicle to the center of a glacier, where you can learn how to walk on moving ice.

7. Eat. In a nutshell, the food is great. It isn’t New York City, but since it caters to an international crowd, there are lots of little ethnic restaurants in Banff and Canmore that range in price from quite inexpensive to “once in a lifetime” expensive. Here's a taste of what you'll find: Joe Diner in Banff is worth a hamburger—it's a 1950s style diner with attitude to spare, and reasonably priced. Guido’s Restaurante is a bit of an institution, and we had some very good, medium-priced Italian food there. It was very quiet, with candlelight—a fine honeymoon restaurant. (We also saw a moose walking down the street after that dinner.) The best food we had in Canmore was at Sinclair’s, a lovely old house with a large deck that has been converted into a Canadian-style restaurant. Sinclair’s is a Frommer’s choice selection for the area, and reasonably priced. Finally, there is a five-diamond (AAA/CAA) French restaurant in Banff, Eden, which offers an eight-course tasting dinner for $125 Canadian (too rich for our blood on our honeymoon, but maybe next time).

8. Assorted wilderness pleasures. Besides all of the above, you can also go horseback riding, fishing, river rafting (we rafted down the Bow River), kayaking, or wilderness touring.

9. Assorted cultural pleasures. The Banff Center holds an annual film festival, book festival, a summer arts festival, a summer concert series, and a performing arts series. For its part, Canmore has a dinner theatre ("Oh Canada, Eh?"), and the Canmore Folk Music Festival is generally held at the end of July or the beginning of August. In addition, movies, shopping, and art galleries are also available in the area.

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Romantic Spot

It's so hard to choose, but if we had to pick one spot, it'd probably have to be the observation deck overlooking Moraine Lake, or breakfast with the ducks alongside the creek at the Creek House (see, we couldn't settle on one).

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Links

Our honeymoon in the Canadian Rockies

"It was amazing. Everywhere we went, there were GIANT MOUNTAINS! GLACIERS! TURQUOISE LAKES! It was incredible.... The mountains...just came shooting up out of the ground. They were big. Just huge. Big. With big glaciers dripping off of them. Way cool!" Reading their amusing account, we got the distinct impression that Tim and Steph enjoyed backpacking the Canadian Rockies in late September 2003. Read about their encounters with glaciers, bighorn sheep, and German tourists, then click on the link at the end of the page for another page with lots of pictures.

Heart Mountain

Wayne Norman and his wife decided to scale Heart Mountain, near Banff, on their honeymoon. Brief text account; no photos.

DiscoverBanff.com

Comprehensive commercial travel directory for Banff.

canmorealberta.com

One of the best guides to the region on the web; includes interactive map of Canmore and a live webcam of the Three Sisters mountains.

DiscoverCanmore.com

Comprehensive commercial travel directory for Canmore.

Banff National Park

Official site of the national park.

The Banff Center

"The Banff Centre is an incubator of creativity that inspires and empowers artists, the mountain community, and business and community leaders from Alberta, Canada, and around the world." The center also sponsors festivals, concerts, and performing arts; be sure to check their calendar of events.

The Creek House

A luxurious bed and breakfast alongside Policeman's Creek near downtown Canmore, with views of the mountains out of most windows.

• Photos of downtown Canmore: Visit this page to get a feel for the attractions in downtown Canmore.

Hostelling International-Canada-Alberta

Lists youth hostels in Alberta, including several in the Banff area.

Travel Alberta

The official tourism site for Alberta provides a broader overview of the region in general plus valuable information for visitors.

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Your honeymoon story

Have you done this trip (whether on your honeymoon or other travel)? We'd love to hear about your experience so we can share it with others . . . just drop us a line.

Last Updated: March 29, 2007