Hidden Hawaii Honeymoon

There, you'll find dramatic waterfalls, the world's tallest sea cliffs, rainforests, fragrant plumeria trees, archeological sites, ranches, coral reefs, authentic native Hawaiian culture, and some of the most spectacular white beaches in Hawaii—but no stoplights, no crowds of tourists, and no building taller than a coconut tree. The island, which is 38 miles long by 10 miles wide, has only 7,000 permanent residents (most of them native Hawaiians) and 80,000 visitors per year. Honeymoon here, and the island is practically yours.

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Despite its lack of commercial and tourist development, there is still plenty to see and do on Molokai (as the extensive list of activities and attractions below demonstrates). "Life on Moloka‘i is so non-commercial that visitors at first might wonder, 'Where’s the Hawaiian stuff?'" the Molokai Visitors Association says on its website. "The answer is–it’s everywhere. Impromptu performances at Kaunakakai’s Saturday street market. A group of men standing out on the reef hauling a net together. Young girls dancing during the dinner hour at one of the small hotels. The baggage handlers playing ‘ukulele in the lull between planes. It’s normal life."

Islanders like to say that Hawaiian culture is not so much preserved as it is lived on the island—it's frequently called the "most Hawaiian" of the Hawaiian islands. That's because native Hawaiians make up most of Molokai's population, and the Hawaiian Homestead Act of 1920 restored their control of ancestral lands (including much of the coast). Most of the island is rural, enabling many native Hawaiians to practice traditional livelihoods such as farming, fishing, and hunting. Hawaiian culture is also on display during the island's many festivals, which are celebrations of native culture by Hawaiians, for Hawaiians—on Molokai, they are not primarily tourist events, although visitors are more than welcome.

The island's terrain varies widely. On the north side are gigantic cliffs rising more than 3,000 feet above the sea, sliced by razor-thin canyons and the tallest waterfalls in Hawaii. The Kalaupapa Peninsula, which extends from the foot of the cliffs, contains a rainforest with plant and animal life found nowhere else in the world. The western coastline forms a bowl-shaped arc that is home to some of Hawaii's largest (and least crowded) beaches. Central Molokai is hilly, rough pastureland largely devoted to agriculture. The eastern part of the island is rainier and more forested, while the south shore is protected by the most extensive reef system in the United States.

Molokai offers a variety of different accommodations: bed-and-breakfasts in the central part of the island, three modest mini-resorts along the sheltered south shore, ranches on the east side of the island, and condominiums on the north. A number of guest houses are also available for rental. Cut-rate backpacker lodging, as well as camping, is a possibility for couples on a budget.

Is this honeymoon idea for you?

The Molokai Visitors Association sums up the island experience nicely: "Moloka‘i is not for everybody–and that’s precisely the reason to go." So, is Molokai for you? Yes, if you're looking for a laid-back honeymoon among friendly, authentic people in a tropical paradise. But if you're looking for vibrant nightlife, shopping, and the typical Hawaiian tourist experience, it might be better to try one of the other Hawaiian islands.

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Cost

To provide a rough idea of how much a honeymoon on Molokai might cost, we looked at airfares throughout the coming year and a range of accommodation possibilities. At the time of this writing, airfare from Los Angeles to Honolulu ran about $500-$600 per person. You can get to Molokai from Honolulu by plane ($177) or, if you stop at Maui first, by the Maui-Molokai ferry($40 per person, one way, not including taxes and fees). Accommodation rates vary widely. You can camp for as little as $5 a night at state, county, or national parks on Molokai; other accommodations range from about $85 to $500 per night, with many in the $100-$200 range (don't forget to take the room tax into account). Visit during the low season (April - December) for cheaper rates.

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Activities & Attractions

Here's just a sampling of what you can see and do on Molokai:

• Hit the beach. Molokai boasts 16 beaches (although only six are considered suitable for swimming), including one of Hawaii's largest white-sand beaches: Papohaku Beach, which is three miles long and 100 yards wide (long stroll at sunset, anyone?). Quite a few visitors report not encountering anyone else on the beach—not even another footprint!

• Take a cruise. Molokai Charters offer a variety of cruises, including a whale-watching cruise, a sunset cruise, and a snorkeling cruise. Other charter boats will take you deep-sea sport fishing, while Moloka‘i Action Adventures offers wild rides along the island's stunning sea cliffs.

• Play in the water. The reef that lies about a mile off Molokai's south shore creates relatively calm, shallow, lake-like waters for all sorts of aquatic activities. Hop into a kayak and explore the shore's ancient fishponds and mangrove forests. Or go scuba diving with native guides who can show you the area's underwater caves, blue holes, and hammerhead sharks. Snorkeling is also an option, although online reviewers who have snorkeled on Molokai say it's not as good as on other Hawaiian islands.

• Take a tour. Tour the Molokai Coffee Plantation to learn about coffee production from seed to cup, and dine at the restaurant next door. Want a little sugar with that coffee? Head over the the historic R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill to see nineteenth-century sugar processing. Tour Honouliwai Taro Patch Farm, which grows taro (the staple food of old Hawaii) in a plot of ancient fish ponds, or go nuts at Purdy's Macadamia Nut Farm.

  Molokai's lush valleys beckon. (National Park Service photo)

• Head into town. Kaunakakai, Molokai's largest town, offers shopping and dining opportunities in its one-block-long "downtown"—the perfect place to pick up some wine, Molokai sweet bread, or maybe a homemade lunch sold off the back of an old pickup by a Hawaiian family. Kamakana Gallery displays the work of the island's artists, including traditional native art forms. The Molokai Visitors Association advises guests to stock up on provisions soon after arriving, as the town largely closes down after sunset and on Sundays. One exception to that rule is the Kanemitsu Bakery, where people start lining up at the back door around 10 p.m. in order to buy the bakery's famous bread hot out of the oven.

• Explore the island by bike. The Lodge and Beach Village at Moloka'i Ranch maintains a network of some sixty bike trails ranging from flat and easy to expert-level mountain bike trails along the sea cliffs. Or trade your rental car for rented bikes and tour the island at a slower pace for a few days.

• Take a hike on Hawaii's wild side. Kamakou Preserve, maintained by the Nature Conservancy, contains more than 250 species of native plants, 90 percent of them found only on Hawaii. A boardwalk offers close-up views of a bog, as well as nice views of two valleys ornamented by long waterfalls. The Nature Conservancy also runs a shoreline preserve at Mo‘omomi, where coastal dunes protect rare native plants and animals.

• Swim beneath a waterfall. Hike through the forests of Halawa Valley to the 250-foot high Moa‘ula Falls, and swim in the pools beneath the falls. (The valley and waterfall are on private property, so you will need permission and a guide.)

• Ride into the sunset, and the sea. Pu'u O Hoku Ranch is a small-scale cattle ranch and organic farm that has a variety of trails on its 14,000 acres. These trails feature the beautiful Halawa Valley, waterfalls, secret swimming holes, views of the North Shore sea cliffs, and (in winter) a humpback whale nursery. Explore the trails by bicycle or horseback. The ranch offers a romantic sunset horseback ride, complete with champagne dinner in a wild setting, as well as a coastal ride that culminates with a plunge into the sea, horse and all. Molokai Ranch, a working cattle ranch and resort, also offers horseback riding—but not your typical nose-to-tail trail ride; you can even participate in a roundup.

• Find ancient Hawaii. Hike coastal trails on the west side of Molokai to the remains of an old village, an adze quarry, and an ancient paved road. Historical Hikes West Moloka'i offers outings in the area that emphasize stories of Hawaii’s culture and history. You'll also want to visit the ancient stone fishponds in which aquaculture was once practiced; the ponds are currently being restored.

• Descend the tallest sea cliffs in the world. You can descend the sea cliffs on the north side of the island along a four-mile trail to the Kalaupapa Peninsula; the wide, safe trail drops nearly two thousand feet by means of twenty-six switchbacks. You can hike the trail on foot, or on mule-back.

  Molokai Lighthouse is the tallest lighthouse on the Pacific. (National Park Service photo)

• Visit Kalaupapa National Historical Park. This national park memorializes two tragedies at Kalaupapa: the removal of native Hawaiians in 1865 and 1895, and the forced isolation of people with Hansen's disease (leprosy) from 1866 until 1969; survivors of the disease continue to live in the community voluntarily. The park contains sea cliffs, valleys, an archeological site, plants and animals found nowhere else in the world, and the tallest U.S. lighthouse on the Pacific Ocean. Visits to the park require advance planning (see the park website at the link below).

• Celebrate with a festival. Add a little spice to your honeymoon by planning to visit during one of the island's many festivals. (If you do, though, the Molokai Visitors Association warns that you should book your accommodations and rental car well in advance, as the festivals draw people from all over Hawaii.) A full listing of Molokai events with detailed descriptions can be found at the links below, but here's a sampling of what might be going on during your honeymoon. January sees the one-day Ka Moloka‘i Makahiki Festival, which features sporting games, a song competition, and traditional ceremonies. The Ho‘omau Concert held in April is a day-long festival featuring the island's many musicians. May features open-sea canoe and kayak paddling races across the Kaiwi Channel (the difficult crossing between Molokai and Oahu). May also brings the Ka Hula Piko Festival, a week-long celebration of Molokai as the traditional birthplace of hula; the week culminates in a solemn sunrise ritual and an all-day party featuring Molokai's dancers and musicians. The world-class Molokai To Oahu Paddleboard Race is held in July. September's week-long Aloha Festival features shows, parades, a ho‘olaule‘a (celebration) and a Royal Ball. November boasts the He Makana Aloha Competition, which celebrates traditional Hawaiian arts such as dance, song, slack-key guitar, and 'ukulele.

• Visit the rest of Hawaii. Molokai lies in the heart of the Hawaiian islands, about eight miles from Maui, ten miles from Lanai, and 26 miles from Oahu; visitors from outside Hawaii fly into Honolulu, then take a plane to Molokai. Plane and ferry service from Maui is also available. If you have time, you'll probably want to spend some time on these other islands as well.
   

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Links

Visitor reviews of Molokai

Molokai as told by folks who have been there.

• epinions: Reviewers give near-universal praise to Molokai, frequently mentioning the absence of other tourists.

• TripAdvisor: Read reviews of various Molokai accommodations and experiences.

Information from the Molokai Visitors Association

Intrigued by Molokai as a honeymoon destination? Find out more in these articles from the Molokai Visitors Association:

• Molokai Accommodations: An introduction to the island's laid-back personality plus an overview of the many hospitality options.

• Molokai Dining: An overview of Molokai's many dining possibilities, from fine dining at Moloka'i Ranch to the Kanemitsu Bakery's famous bread, and everything in between.

• A Driving Tour of Molokai: A driving tour of Molokai, with stops at its many natural and cultural attractions.

Slow but sure
Subtitled, "Small Hawaiian island of Molokai bursts at seams with activity," this San Diego Union-Tribune newspaper story profiles Molokai's local culture and many activities.

Molokai: Hawaii's Heavenly Holdout

Rita Ariyoshi describes Molokai's culture, history, and beauty with lush prose in this detailed article from the American Automobile Association.

Molokai Honeymoon Photo Album

Marc and Lisa share photos from their Molokai honeymoon.

Molokai at Lonely Planet

Lonely Planet's excellent guide to Molokai.

Molokai Visitors Association

The official website of the Molokai Visitors Association, with information on activities, accommodations, and more.

molokaievents.com

An up-to-date Molokai events calendar, with event details and photos from past events.

Molokai at Hawaiiweb

Extensive information and pictures make this site a virtual tour of Molokai.

Kalaupapa National Historical Park

This is the most useful section of the Kalaupapa National Historical Park website.

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Your honeymoon story

Have you done this trip (whether on your honeymoon or other travel)? We'd love to hear about your experience so we can share it with others . . . just drop us a line.

Last Updated: February 18, 2005